"You know, a few years ago Warrabilla winemaker Andrew Sutherland Smith said that a table wine at 18 percent alcohol was ‘the grail’. Here the grail is reached. It is 18 percent and it arguably shows every notch of it, the finish warm and firey. That said, this wine should not be dismissed. It’s beautifully, finely, smoothly structured, and for some reason the warmth hardly shows on the nose, allowing delightful scents of camphor, cassis, caramel, sandalwood and raspberry to issue deliciously from the glass. The fruit profile here is sweet but hypnotic, not unlike the appeal of a good Torbreck wine. In its style, it’s gorgeous drinking. Drink: 2007-2013. 92 points."