"Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rouge, Château Calissanne 2005
Identical in makeup to the 2007 rosé, save the absence of any Mourvedre. Bright fruit with fine tannin delineation. Smoke, garrigue and blackberry, along with cinnamon bark. Juicy and at the same time briary texture. Temperature controlled pipes were installed in the winery in 2004, allowing fruit to be chilled to around 12ºC/52ºF before entry into the fermentation vats. The slower, gentler start to fermentation this enables has led to a wine that shows more boisterous, fresh fruit than in the pre-2004 years, when roasted fruit (not unpleasantly so) and more herbal flavors were not uncommon. In some respects, I preferred the earlier versions for their food-friendliness. But the 2005 is hard not to "