"Assembled into a foudre when I tasted it, the Gauby 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes – relatively equally divided among Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah with a smaller amount of Mourvedre, and exposed to around 20% new wood – smells of thyme, rosemary, fennel, and tar, along with ripe black fruits. With a bitter edge to its almost severe palate concentration of cassis, blackberry, juniper berry, resinous herbs, licorice, and tar, this strikingly dense, palate-staining cuvee exhibits a juiciness of fresh fruits and exuberance, as well as a refinement of tannins, that distinguish all of the best recent Gauby wines, and that keep it from austerity. Nor – amid a virtual torrent of finishing fruit – is a diversity of impressions missing that, while hard-to-describe, can only be categorized as mineral. I would anticipate being rewarded by bottles of this for 12-15 years. (94-95)."